In Honor of the Lunchwagon
By Alan Okami
Lunchwagons. Where have they all gone? That's not a rhetorical question. I work in Kalihi, the former Mecca of lunchwagons. You name it, you could find it here, once upon a time. Cash and carry, that was the name of the game. No rent, no overhead, just good ole hard work and the cash to justify it. These days, it seems everyone wants to get into a brick and mortar type of operation. So where have all the lunchwagons gone anyways?
No worry beef curry, pun fully intended. I was driving around Kalihi in search of pictures to take of lunchwagons and came across Carval Express. No beef curry here, something a little different.
It's plate lunch with a gourmet flair. Plate lunch extraordinaire. Hey, I'm rhyming.
As you can see, the offerings are pretty interesting. They even feature salads for those that want a "fake" plate lunch experience, ha ha. Actually, the salads normally sell out fast, so I shouldn't jest. Notice the prices as well. Not too bad for such tasty stuff.
And to top things off, service with a smile. Note to guys - the guy working in there is NOT her boyfriend. Just thought I'd throw that in...nothing to do with the food....
So I decided to go for the Chipotle Pork Chops. So darn ono it's nuts. They give a lot of food too, for you out there that appreciate volume more than gourmet. I couldn't finish it all. I ate about half the entree, one scoop of rice and half of the potato salad (Nalu greens an options as well)
They're located in Kalihi Kai, right above Nimitz on the corner of Kalani and Mokauea. Find the sign, they're right there in the empty parking lot.
Good to know that the lunchwagons, though sparse, are still around. It may be a little different from the days of Grace's on Metcalf, Tsukenjo's and all the classics, but perhaps leading the way in creating new classics. The world is always changing, so it's only fair to give the wagons the same grace.
After all, the food is great, prices reasonable and they're purveyors and keepers of the ever lasting lunchwagon tradition.
Kaleo O Kalihi
September 20th, 2010 at 5:33 pm
Nah!
1st!!!
September 20th, 2010 at 5:36 pm
Lunch wagons were just a part of growing up in Hawai'i in the olden days. The one I remember the best of all was at the harbor below Ward (I forget the name). Anyhow, the folks who ran it got old and their kids did not want to take over. The bestest food and lots of it, too. It was always a special treat when Dad took the family there on special weekends and to eat it at Ala Moana Park.
Ahhhhhhh, great memories.
Where are those days, anyhow?
September 20th, 2010 at 5:42 pm
mouth is watering. how long has that truck been there, u know?
September 20th, 2010 at 6:15 pm
Just one word: Tsukenjo. That's one of the first lunch wagons to turn restaurant that I remember. Up here in my neck of the woods, I recently discovered a Korean Taco truck called Seoul on Wheels. There seems to be a lunchwagon resurgence here, including a cupcake truck.
September 20th, 2010 at 7:39 pm
Oh brah, just tease yeah? Nah joke. OK after reading your fancy smancy post, I must admit, their fuud offerings are above the rest. Most are greasy spoon affairs but this one looks so good.
I was on Kauai last week in Hanapepe and they get this lunch wagon called Mele's Kuchina. Some guud too. Shrimp plates with their own special butter sauce with citrus was some guud. And only $8. She go.
In Hilo we get several Lunch wagons in the industrial area. Saturday's I hit this Huli huli chicken place by Home Depot. Something about that Kiawe smoke just draws me. Actually all fuud draws me.
September 20th, 2010 at 8:12 pm
Wow, I should visit this blog more often. Those grinds are worth a heart attack. Do they serve near the hospital? Just wondering...
September 20th, 2010 at 8:26 pm
Howzit Alan,
This is not your regular plate lunch. yummy yummy
September 20th, 2010 at 9:15 pm
Oh wow, this food looks good. Better yet, it's right in Mr. Okami's Neighborhood. Just another place to add to the list of places to check out in the ole 'hood.
Aloha from across the seas.
September 20th, 2010 at 10:31 pm
Whoa! The comments that food always bring,
Here goes
wafan, considering my usual amount of comments, indeed first, ha ha. I think the one you are thinking of is "Kewalos"? When my cousin was working with me in the late eighties, we would try to get out there, but alas, you gotta go early or no mo stuff left. Never got to sample...shucks
papaya, they've been there a few months at most. We actually go there quite a bit, but it was my official first time as I am not the lunch runner. Always good. You gotta try the braised short ribs, oooooh!
Mole, "We Meet Again" bwa ha ha, that never gets old. I think we'll be in our 80's before I get tired of that line. Tsukenjos, YES! Think even the counter one is gone if I am not mistaken. Lots of change since small kid time. Cupcake wagon huh? Lots of hype about cupcakes these days. Since I'm not into sweets, can't see what the fuss is about. On the other hand, there's a lingerie expresso wagon here in Kalihi. Into coffee, but as much as I am a red blooded man, I'm not into the other part of the coffee wagon. Never been there and I probably won't feature in my blog. On a irrelevant side note, just remembered your mom's ono cornbread when a bunch of us slept over. Good memories.
Ynaku, Ah there you are my friend! Thought you didn't love me anymore, ha ha. Oooh Ynakuu, where are youuuu? Ha ha. I gonna be in your neck of the woods soon. Have a ukulele build coming up again with Queen Liliuokalani Childrens Center. One pound laulau coming up at Kuhio Grill! Ahhh, see you trouble maker, now I like go kauai too....*drooling* Hmmm, what "business" do I need to conduct there?.....
Shoko, thanks. A lot of my posts are about food, when I'm not busy griping about my travails as of late. I'm a foodie and never get tired of trying new stuff. Got a ton of posts coming up about my food places. BTW, Blood Bank is about a block away, does that count? Thanks for reading and posting.
M, it certainly is not. I mean it is, but not. Chef prepared food at plate lunch prices. When you gonna stop by? We go grab lunch and hang out. I'd love to hear what's been going on with you. Was nice to see you at our party though I had to be social butterfly that night. Whew! Think I'm recovered by now.
David in Oregon, well my friend, your list grows longer for when you stop by home again. If I ever make it up to Oregon, I'll depend on you for the places to go there. Now, I want real kine haole food. Love that fare too. My BFF and I would often trade home lunches. He would get to eat local and I would get to eat Florida kine. Miss Big Vinny, he's my bud.
September 21st, 2010 at 12:46 am
Aloha Alan, ok...competition is good...the more (lunchwagons) the merrier! here is my list of currents LW eats: Pier 21 hangs out nearby Matson yard and the CC sewage plant @ sand isle road, then there's 1 small trailer-type that sits nearby 76 gas station across kilgos, then on the street between New Hope Church Office and American Carpet lies a lunchwagon around the curb...they are good and go out fast, there are some around the Mapunapuna area too many to shout out. If you can catch em, and luv filipino food, there is PINO CAFE (green lunchwagon) they sometimes hang out with other wagons on the makai side of Cutter Chevy on Ala Moana Blvd, some other wagons do also hang out around that park behind Fisher Hawaii and Pohukaina Sts. Some that are no longer in business are: Kanda Lunchwagon on Kewalo Basin (awesome food..great svc) of course, Tsukenjo's...Eagle Cafe Lunchwagon (they used to hang out in a tight space nxt to American Savings and Chucks Corvette on Queen Street. At times, there are 2 lunchwagon-types at kapiolani blvd ewa empty lot where Cutter Chevy used to hang out. Then we travel windward...across from 7-11 and Waimanalo Beach Park where there are 3? lunchwagons...competing with the favorite Kenekes (a popular choice among tourists as well as locals). Why I know alot Alan? Im a delivery driver and I look for places to eat also...keeps my eyes open instead of closed...know wut I mean?? Alooooha!
September 21st, 2010 at 6:27 am
Howzit Alan,
You really make me homesick. I lived on the corner of Libby and Colburn Street until 1952. Came back from 1960 to 1964. Now we live in TN.
Man! you talking about Kalihi-Kai and the plate lunches bring back good memories. My wife, who is from Maine, can cook local kine food so still eat good. Spent lots of time at Ala Moana park with the wife and kids eating plate lunches. Thanks for the memories.
BTW I still play ukulele and have the Concert KeAloha.
KalihiboyinTN Harry
September 21st, 2010 at 6:29 am
mahalos for the info on this wagon. sometimes in the area so will try to stop there. ono grinds and a smiling face... no can go wrong.
September 21st, 2010 at 8:25 am
That plate looks ono.
We only have one, sometimes two wagons near work. Gets boring after a while with the same choice.
Maybe I gotta venture out to Kalihi during lunch...hmmm.
September 21st, 2010 at 8:38 am
The food looks ono. I thought we stay on one diet. The one with the smile looks good too.
September 21st, 2010 at 9:28 am
mmm... the food looks great! too bad i'm not in my neighborhood during lunchtime!!
lol... you're right about the draw of food to your blog... i read "lunchwagon" and i popped right on over!
food is such a big part of our culture!
September 21st, 2010 at 9:31 am
From SF Bay Area(Napa) I worked at HIRI(Hawaiian Independent Refinery)at Barber's Point Oahu many times as contractor in 80's and 90's. Da best food was the lunchwagon "Plate Lunch" provided. I learned to make my own version of Plate Lunch and especially "Mac Salad" Hawaiian Style. Been back to every Island many times since and have trouble finding real good "Plate Lunch" anymore. Small shop in Pa'ia' on Maui near Baldwin Beach has da best I've found in a long time. One Wagon at Sandy Beach was good too. The art of Plate Lunch on Da Wagons is becoming a lost art......
September 21st, 2010 at 9:35 am
Pennys.
September 21st, 2010 at 10:07 am
I agree...
Food always brings the most and fastest responses. Way back in hanabaddah days, I went to Radford HS and we had lunch trucks park out front before, during lunch, and after school. WOW laulau, da kine stay ono!
Okay I have a question...... where is the best shave ice these days?
September 21st, 2010 at 11:37 am
My first plate lunch was in Campbell Industrial Park and I couldn't believe all the different stuff on the plate. Like eating leftovers for dinner.....a lil' bit of this and a lil' bit of that...
@Ynaku, you ever ate the pork ribs at the chicken place by Home Depot? I like the chicken and love pork ribs but never tried yet.
September 21st, 2010 at 12:15 pm
Mmmmm.
Like the brown rice option too!
September 21st, 2010 at 12:21 pm
New Eagle lunch wagon is still around. Just a different name and different location. Susie (owner) is now operating one block away on Ilaniwai St. Same great tasting food as always (garlic pepper steak, prime rib, baked stuff ono, etc.)
Other good LW's are Yuki's by the old Honolulu Medical Group parking lot. Best hamburger steak and mac salad! Nicky's (yellow wagon) by the court building in downtown. Mapunapuna area has the LW that's connected to the eatery on Ualena St. , forgot the name but its the LW by BankOh in Mapunapuna. Silver truck with the young local girl!
September 21st, 2010 at 12:24 pm
Best shave ice is on school street just before Foodland. Shimazu's. Waiola is not bad along with Matsumoto and Aoki's in Haleiwa. Too far and commercialized.
September 21st, 2010 at 12:35 pm
Wowzer! Is this my blog? I am thrilled by the comments. I always have comment envy for the ones with a lot. I really enjoy my posts and it's encouraging to know that people out there actually read my stuff, here goes:
Wayne, you my friend are the Wikipedia of Lunchwagon. A true lunchwagon master. I am humbled. Thanks for all the info. I have to admit, I still think the lunchwagon is a dying thing, but now the readers have more scoops to follow up on. I can remember driving around Waimanalo side one time, searching for the pastele wagon. Are they still there? Thanks again.
Harry, thanks for the support on the ukulele! Good to hear you still playing and also that the wifey can cook da local food. I was guessing in TN you got the mean hookups for fried chicken, ribs and ocra. Down Kalihi Kai, there's my favorite poke stop, Alicia's. I LOVE the scallop rind poke.
B, worth the stop, I promise. Reminds me a little of Spot's Inn when they were in Kalihi. Gourmet food at plate lunch prices.
Kage, come on over to Kalihi, we still got a few around. I'm sure one of them will satisfy your craving.
ylea, I am indeed on a diet. Makes these kind of posts all the more painful, but I like the results I have been getting. Lean, mean lovin machine. The girl is nice too. Really happy person with a nice personality. Maybe you'll walk away with more than a plate lunch, I'll cheer for you.
snow, thanks for stopping by. Glad you liked the post. Now just gotta come over to Kalihi and sample what's in the pictures.
Surfdog, so true, a dying art. We gotta go rescue em, bumbai they gonna disappear. I have a small tip from my former coach that catered parties - mac salad: puree white onion and celery and add to your mix. It's unreal the depth of flavor w/o the bite of chunks. You back home now?
RedZone, Penny's used to be by my shop, loved their saimin and plate lunches. Miss them.
Hamajang, that's neat, I didn't know had lunchwagon over there. Days of no mo car, Castle Park may have well been as far as Disneyland. Rarely ventured into Salt Lake.
MaryC, ahh, the lunchwagons in Campbell, think many of them are still there. I am so tempted to stop by when I drive there, but I need to stay disciplined and focused. Can practicall smell em though whenever I drive by...
September 21st, 2010 at 12:39 pm
Now I stay hungry!
Warm Aloha from Ala Moana
Comfort Spiral
September 21st, 2010 at 1:10 pm
Hamajang
best shaved ice
Shimazu Store on N School St between Nuuanu and Liliha
(closed on Mondays)
September 21st, 2010 at 1:14 pm
Best lunchwagon
Blue Twppanyaki Wagon
lunch rotates between Kawaihao behind the old advertiser bulding
and
Mililani St near main post office and Kamehameha Statue
dinner on University Ave from 5 pm - 8 pm daily
$7 sirloin steak teppanyaki style cooked with onions when ordered
rice and corn (ask for extra teriyaki sauce on the side)
call 389-6808 to pre-order and confirm location for the day
September 21st, 2010 at 1:15 pm
my first memories of lunch wagon was at Graces at UH
before they had a drive-in
September 21st, 2010 at 2:31 pm
LizKauai, yes, I go for that when I order. Better carbs than white.
Mac Salad, like your screen name, very fitting for this post. Hamburger Steak! My favorite. Used to love the M&N LW that parked on Kalani St back in the day.Wonder if New Eagle is related to the sit down place? My mom's neighbor up the street at home.
Sam Chow, we just took the crew to Shimazu's today for a break from the heat. Inclined to agree, but childhood memories say when Shimazu's was B&S Shave Ice. Money was tight, but it was always affordable for a coneful of wintery delight.
CLOUDIA, Aloha to Ala Moana too. I getting hungry too. This post has set off a flood of response.
chopsueyboy, thanks for all the input. The teppan wagon, good info, I been looking for them. Now I know how to find them. Ahh the memories of the Grace's wagon at UH. Cannot forget the food and the prices ($3.50-$5)
September 21st, 2010 at 3:26 pm
aokami
I must be old or you're so young
the Graces I remember was 85 cents and $1 for mix plate in the early 1970's
still had money left over for soda
I remember the mama-san papa-san at B & S Shave Ice
not as big as the current version, but just as ono
September 21st, 2010 at 3:36 pm
Aokami, New Eagle was connected to the Nimitz Restaurant several years ago. I believe the food is from somewhere else now. Still tastes great as always!
All-time favorite plate lunch came from Torii's lunch room on Sheridan Street. Breaded Pork Chop and Beef Stew mix! Gotta love the mac salad! What's the saying, "It's only a snack without the MAC!
September 21st, 2010 at 4:21 pm
Thanks...... I am going to Shimazu's this weekend. Mahalo.....
September 21st, 2010 at 4:49 pm
chopsueyboy, you not so old and I not so young, ha ha. OK, but 85 cents, that would be a rice cake and a soda from the manapua man for me. Chili dog was 75 cents from the pooppoop man outside Booth Park. 25 cents for Lick Yung Taco Toobs. B&S, good memories.
Mac Salad, Ooh, you making trouble. I usually get hungry this time of day and your memoirs make it worse. Mac salad? What you mean? Is there any other salad?
Hamajang, have one for me. I'm on a diet. On top of that, I don't have a sweet tooth. Mood food for me, or sometimes hotter than hell relief, like today.
September 21st, 2010 at 5:10 pm
Dang! I am impressed Alan!!! You even have some Tsai-kos visiting. I guess the food brought them over. Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!
New thing up here (since a little over a year ago) are the taco trucks. They are all over the place. Word from the parents of my Hispanic kids is the trucks are really authentic Mexican rather than Tex-Mex. Sounds good! One of these days . . .
That is right -- Kewalo Basin. Anyhow, the lunchwagon was silver with a counter that was way too high. Best spaghetti, stew, mahi, hotdog, BBQ, rice and mac salad mix plate around. YUM!
September 21st, 2010 at 5:35 pm
Wow, I when I saw that you had over 30 comments, I thought you got spammed. In a way, I guess you did, but with a different kind of SPAM, eh?
Eh, at least you now know the secret to getting people out of the wood work, mention Lunchwagon.
Maybe you have to start using tags, and put the word Lunchwagon in for each blog entry.
September 21st, 2010 at 5:39 pm
Alan: I keep forgetting where you grew up. Booth Park, that place brings back a lot of memories for me. I used to swim at the pool a lot. High school time, one of my best friends was from the area, lived just a couple blocks away. Mention Lau Poo Market, and that brings back childhood memories for him.
September 22nd, 2010 at 6:38 am
It's funny but all of a sudden the lunch wagon has caught on here in L.A. thanks to the Kogi truck, famous for their Korean tacos. The lw line Wilshire Blvd. in the midcity section. However, there is no HI plate lunch wagon with hamburger steak, beef stew, etc.
The Kogi truck moves around a lot, but you can find them on Twitter.
September 22nd, 2010 at 3:33 pm
wafan, I believe I have a new comment record going here. Feels guuud. My norm is between 5 to 10 on the high side. Next post, Lunchwagon! Ha ha ha
David in Oregon, well, actually I AM getting a ton of Spam, just they get caught in moderation. I probably get about 40-50 a day. More if I don't check in every now and then. Lau Poo, Space Invaders, 25 cent ice cake, Booth Park, PAL baseball, the memories. I grew up in lower Nuuanu, but went Pauoa from 3-6 grade.
Sandy, Kogi truck huh? As in "kogi" or "gogi" like bulgogi? Interesting. A lot of Japanese places here are now run by Koreans. These trucks have caught my interest. Hopefully I can find one next time I go to LA.
September 22nd, 2010 at 3:54 pm
Hui, I stay ova hea. HUI you see me? Eh sorry if I no come visit AS OFTEN as before. Us stay busy.
Shot me a memo laters when you coming this way. I like eat 1 lb laulau too. Or we can go down the street from QLCC. Get Nori's close by.
FUUD, the topic that draws bloggers to you
September 22nd, 2010 at 3:56 pm
I rememebr going to this one lunch wagon by the airport. Behind the Federal Prison by Aloha Cargo. Some guud. Had stuffed Ahi one time for like $5. Choke fuud. Hard to finish but I tried real hard and I won
September 22nd, 2010 at 8:50 pm
Alan: Just remember, No Liz Hurley. No Liz Hurley. No Liz Hurley.
September 23rd, 2010 at 9:48 am
hmmmmmm manapua....... yummmm. Reading all your posts reminded me of Yick Lung crack seed, too. No moa da kine but was good while it lasted
September 23rd, 2010 at 10:23 am
Ynaku, Mmmm, Nori's.....and they get the gift shop with all the goodies next door too. If we get da kine spare time, I def gonna let you know and we hook up.
David in Oregon, Liz Hurley, Liz Hurley, Liz Hurleeeeeey, wha? Huh? Did you say something? Hugh is nuts. Imagine Cheetos everyday.
Hamajang, That's right, the crack seed was da bestest. I have a neighbor here at work that distributes seed, so we're pretty well taken care of, but cannot beat the tastes and memories of childhood.
September 23rd, 2010 at 1:22 pm
Alan: Cheetos everyday. I'd die a happy, momona, orange guy.
People would come to the viewing and ask, "what's with the orange makeup?" 
Hamajang/Alan: You guys would have to bring up Yick Lung crack seed, eh? For me, it was shredded mango, and rock salt plum. Oh yeah, and Nibbits.
September 23rd, 2010 at 1:31 pm
David in Oregon, Cheetos? I thought we were talking about Liz Hurley?
...Nibbits, Taco Toobs, rock salt plum...Jonesing...
September 23rd, 2010 at 2:09 pm
Wow. Your blog must me popular. Made a special trip to the lunchwagon after seeing your blog during lunch hour and they were already sold out of food.
Awesome!!! I hope they do well. I bettah leave real early next time.
September 23rd, 2010 at 3:25 pm
Hawaii 5-No way, thanks for commenting and for trying to check out Carval. I can only smile and say, that's why we started a habit of eating lunch early. That way, get mo chance.
September 23rd, 2010 at 4:25 pm
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September 23rd, 2010 at 8:17 pm
Whoa, LW reaches deep into the heart of anyone that grew up in the islands. I remember standing in a line outside the back of the Honolulu Medical Group waiting for what? There was no LW to be seen but, the regulars knew it was only a matter of minutes that Yuki's LW would pull up and start dishing it out. That was a funny sight to see, a line with no wagon around. It was the faithful loyal customers from the immediate vicinity (City Hall, Kalanimoku Bldg, Dept of Health, Board of Water Supply, State Capitol, etc.). Wow laulau, those are some very fond memories I cling to now that no moa LW in my current town of Roseburg, OR. Thanks for the memories!
September 23rd, 2010 at 10:09 pm
Jeffrey Danner, thanks. Hoping you're not a bot, took your comment out of moderation purgatory. Hope you keep coming back to Ka Leo
September 24th, 2010 at 10:10 am
Tod in SW Oregon, Yuki's! I still see that lunchwagon driving around here and there. Now I gotta go try em. Glad to bring you down memory lane.
September 25th, 2010 at 4:49 am
Wow, look at a number of comments you received. I strongly recommend you to write a book about local food. If you need, I will translate your book in Japanese and try to help you to distribute your book! I can tell there is a market demanding your knowledge!!